Modern-Day Professionalism: Conform, or Quit Trying

If I need to make a good impression, I’ll straighten my hair.

Not because I enjoy the extra hour it takes, or the knowledge that I’m multiplying my split-ends, but because I’ve internalized the notion that straighter, sleeker hair means I’ll be taken more seriously.

Society imposes a number of Eurocentric beauty standards onto people of color; we’re told to praise thinner frames, shiny hair, and lighter skin. It might sound trivial to obsess about something as seemingly materialistic as hair, but this isn’t about looking ‘prettier’ — it’s about demanding respect from a society that denies entry to those who don’t conform to Western expectations.

So when Eurocentric beauty standards are upheld in the workplace, it can be severely discouraging to the professional pursuits of minorities.

Perceptions of professionalism tend to exclude certain types of ethnic hairstyles, most of which originated within the black community. Natural black hair is susceptible to breakage, so women usually wear it in ‘protective styles’ such as braided cornrows, dreadlocks, twists, or bantu knots. While these styles promote healthier black hair, they carry a social stigma on the job market.

A 2019 study on natural hair bias in job recruitment found that black women wearing natural hairstyles were perceived as “less professional, less competent, and less likely to be recommended for a job interview” when compared to black women with straight hair or white women with either straight or curly styles.

Consequences of wearing natural hair to work can also impact job stability, with some people of color being sent home or even fired for refusing to straighten their hair. Dove’s new research initiative to explore natural hair bias found that over 50% of black women surveyed knew someone who had been sent home from work because of their hairstyle.

The National Association for the Advancement of Colored People Legal Defense Fund (NAACP LDF) even has an entire page showcasing their efforts in court to fight unlawful termination as a result of natural hair discrimination.

These racist sentiments teach black men and women that in order to land a job, they have to manipulate their natural features. In a world where first impressions can make or break the opportunities you receive, people of color are told to either conform, or quit trying.

So many individuals choose to conform. In order to achieve straighter hair, black women must rely on chemical treatments such as ‘texturizers’ to thin hair or ‘relaxers’ to break down their curl pattern. The process is costly, time-consuming, and perpetuates a cycle of cosmetic abuse.

“The Good Hair” study by the Perception Institute administered psychological testing to over 4,000 participants in an effort to understand internalized bias. The results showed that participants of every race repeatedly associated negative words with images of textured hair, demonstrating implicit bias. It also found that 1 in 5 black women feel a social pressure to straighten their hair for work, which is nearly double the same scenario for white women.

It would be easier to resolve these discrepancies if the language surrounding workplace professionalism were inclusive. However, the language is just as vague as when it was first established.

In 2016, JPMorgan Chase made national headlines for modifying their dress-code to include business casual clothing. The expectations for hair, however, remained unchanged — no “unprofessional hairstyles.”

With language so subjective, it’s up to the interpretation of those in charge. But management positions are monopolized by white men, with New York think tank Coqual finding that black employees make up only 3.2% of senior-level positions in US companies. As a result, the people implementing professional standards lack a holistic understanding of the rich history behind certain hairstyles.

Society needs protections in place that can define the boundaries of workplace expectations. When Muslim women encountered job discrimination due to their hijabs, the Civil Rights Act of 1964 was updated to include language that prohibited termination, refusal to hire, or discipline as a result of Muslim practices.

The CROWN Act is a new law aiming to prohibit race-based hair discrimination, and would employ the same protections that the Civil Rights Act of 1964 now includes for Muslim women. It is currently waiting to be approved by the Senate.

If it passes, the Act could promote a fresh image of power in America.

A frizzy, untamed, unrestrained image of professionalism.